When comparing tailoring services be sure that you are comparing on a like for like basis.
Here at Redmayne we have four different pricing points - and that is without our special offer and promotion deals. These pricing points are split into three distinctly different methods of make.
Our bespoke make uses a loose canvas interlining, and we have two "fusible" methods, which we use principally for our famous copying service. The better of these two "fusible" makes is also used on our "made to measure" clothes; it is a mix between our bespoke and copying make.
Any method of make can be used on any cloth, so feel free to mix things up. Here we briefly list the methods of make and characteristics which each method has - in our opinion! All the information is about jackets - and waistcoats. The work in the trousers does vary across the methods of make, in that the more expensive makes use better trimmings and incorporate more hand work. Whatever the method of make, we are sure that in its class, it offers you the best value when compared like for like against our competitors.
Quick ways of checking quality of make
Button holes in the cuff - usually four, two real working holes and two not working. The inside of the cuff should be made so that the sleeves can be shortened or lengthened when real holes are used.
Lapel button holes - if this has a key hole shape it reeks of speed and probably means there is a very "price conscious" approach to all the making policy. A better sign is if the lapel hole is just two parallel lines without an eye.
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If the lining runs into the front corner then the coat has been made on a "bagged out" or engineered system, and is price sensitive. It is also almost certainly held together with double sided sticky tape. The life expectancy of this method of make is short.
If the join of the lining and facing has this little square finished arrangement, then the coat has been made on an "open coat" system, and will have additional hand work on the inside to help retain the jacket's shape.
Bespoke / Custom Tailoring
To the "cognoscenti", bespoke tailoring is the fulfilment of your specific requirements, in a technically skilled and aesthetic way, using traditional methods of tailoring with horse hair canvas interlinings, linen stays and many thousands of small stitches, together with judicious use of a "goose" ( a heavy iron.), to mould shape into the cloth of your choice.
Sometimes you will hear the word "coat" used instead of "jacket" - this is usual in the US, and in fact in the bespoke trade, a coat maker makes jackets !
Our bespoke service uses horse hair canvasses, -
Platinum - Bespoke / Custom Tailoring
Bespoke canvassing uses many hand stitches in the make up of the canvasses, enabling us to give a more controlled and flexible shape to the end product. The suppleness of this method of construction makes an extremely comfortable garment. Our bespoke make allows the "feel" and drape of your chosen fabric to be shown at its best.
To those of you who have not experienced the pleasures of hand padded jackets, the joy is yet to come.
Platinum garments are entirely hand made in house, from your own individual paper pattern which we cut and prove from fittings.
Business Specials - Bespoke / Custom Tailoring
- Specially selected designs for business wear
- Five weights of cloth, from 8 to 16oz. All of these cloths are pure wool worsteds.
- Hand canvassed - not using glued interlinings
- Made in our own workrooms
Our aggressive pricing will make these cloths and tailoring service, your first choice for your business wear.
Measuring and fitting services are available in Savile Row London, Edinburgh Scotland, New York and Chicago in the USA.
New customers ordering can expect receipt approximately five weeks after final fitting. Repeat orders, if requested without fittings, are available in five to six weeks.
Made to Measure - sometimes refered to as Bespoke / Custom Tailoring
An individual bespoke pattern is cut for you, and a choice of colourful linings are offered.
Fittings are given part way through the construction process, not adjusted at the end of the making process - like so many of our competitors!
The canvasses are stitched together by machine, which gives a firmer feel to the jackets, and a fusible interlining is used in the body of the jacket.
Use this make where the comfort of our bespoke/custom make is not as important as price.
Made to measure garments are hand finished in house, and cuffs are made for full flexibility with real holes.
Copying and Copy+ Tailoring
These two methods use a "fusible" interlining. We don't want to frighten you off, but the best way of explaining what a fusible interlining is, is by explaining its weaknesses! But first a few positives - fusible interlinings make a lighter weight garment, and speeds up production. In most cases, fusible linings produce a cleaner "slicker" line and image - although we do understand that our target market (you our prospective customer), wants a traditional looking garment, and we can achieve this very successfully in the cut and finishing of the garment you order. Fusible interlinings are stuck to the cloth using glues, which under certain conditions (dry cleaning), may "de-laminate" - become unstuck. On tweeds and heavier cloths the glues do not infuse into the body of the cloth so well, and as the cloth bends and turns, the backing material on the glue can pull away, or pull fibres out of the cloth - so becoming unstuck.
Other than using a fusible interlining, all other methods used in the construction of your order are for as our bespoke make. Use this service for an inexpensive hand tailored look on fabrics from 8oz up.
An individual bespoke pattern is cut for you and Copy+ garments are hand finished in house, with real holes in the cuff where requested.
Our basic method of make, which is actually made on an open coat system, but in all other respects is made in a similar way to "ready mades" and popular made to measure makes, which are sometimes known as "factory", "engineered" or "bagged out" methods of make. Copying is a particularly useful make for those who work in the food, or engineering industry i.e. where the cloth may become prematurely damaged. Copied garments are made from an individual paper pattern which we cut in house; all other work is subcontracted. Our least expensive grade of make is most comparable to popular made to measure makes. As with COPY+ this make is ideal for new garments on a straight repeat basis.
